The aging process involves a few factors that are either controllable or uncontrollable. Inherent are the genetics gained from ones parents. One might say, “If you want to know how you’re going to look like at 50, take a look at your mother or father”. There are plenty of opportunities to replenish the skin with nutrients through diet and healthy living, but the most popular approach is through the use of skin care products. Tackling the sun’s negative effects on the skin has been the age-old mission of manufacturers in the cosmetic industry for more than 25 years. With the American obsession to look young, combined with an array of ingredients, professional studies and technologies, the Cosmeceutical industry is armed with the proper ammunition to create products that are safe and effective for skin rejuvenation.

The Cosmeceutical Market

The surface of the Cosmeceutical industry is filled with new products and technology, along with marketing and advertising for the consumers to choose from. Recent market research in the various areas surrounding skincare products and procedures reflect a positive direction in company profits and consumer interest.

“Demand for anti-aging products is expected to reach $30 billion in 2009, propelled by a stream of new and improved products offering health maintenance and appearance enhancing benefits to a largely untapped customer base of middle-aged and elderly consumers” (Anti-aging Products, Freedonia Group).

According to that same report by the Freedonia Group, the U.S. Cosmeceutical market will increase by 7.2% per year through 2012. Driven by new technology delivering age-defying benefits, they attribute this rapid growth to science and keen marketing.

A reflection of the increase in anti-aging skin care products on the market can also be found in the vast growth of the number of non-surgical procedures recorded by the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS). Non-surgical procedures may include injectables (via needles) containing Hyaluronic Acid, Collagen and Botox, and facial rejuvenation procedures such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion and laser treatments. The ASAPS collected data showing an increase of more than 7 million nonsurgical procedures in 2007 and more than 5 million in 2008 compared to surgical procedures. People are looking to less abrasive and non-evasive procedures and cosmetics for their anti-aging skin care needs.

The market is filled with products that can be purchased in fine department stores and in drugstores. The latter location boast an assortment of products containing the same effective ingredients and methods used to transform wrinkles into smooth and youthful looking surfaces. An example of a drugstore brand of cosmetics that is sweeping the industry is Olay’s® Regenerist Anti-aging and ProX lines. Websites, blogs, magazines and talk shows have all mentioned these lines proving that you don’t necessarily need expensive high-end packaging and branding to compete for the consumers exclusive attention and dollar. An effective product is what you need.

The Purpose

Fighting the sun’s harmful rays is the main feature of most anti-aging products. Free radicals are the main enemy of aging, and antioxidants are the “superheroes” needed to win the battle against UV rays and the uncontrollable factor of time. Most products would only need to penetrate the Stratum Corneum of the Epidermis, also known as the outermost layer of the skin. Skin cells perform specialized functions such as protecting the body from the environment and infection, and preventing excessive water loss. As we age, more and more damage occurs to the skin cells which are primarily caused by free radicals, a by-product of the sun’s chemical process. The loss of proteins, sugars and fatty acids is a result of the sun’s damage. Most importantly, the loss of Collagen’s elastic quality causes the skin to sag, thus creates wrinkles, and is what anti-aging skin care products aim to defeat. Antioxidants are some of the ingredients that assist with putting back what the sun destroys through its chemical reaction. Antioxidants help prevent free radical damage and slow down the aging process.

The Main Ingredients

All anti-aging skin care products contain two types of ingredients – active and inactive. Active ingredients (natural or synthetic) are responsible for the biological action of the product, while the inactive ingredients help protect and deliver the active ingredients. Both are necessary for the effectiveness and application of the products to the skin. Some examples of inactive ingredients include water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Benzyl Alcohol and Disodium EDTA. These ingredients are also needed for the consistency of the cream or cleanser and blending of the ingredients. The FDA requires manufacturers to list the inactive ingredients in descending order of concentration on the product labels.

Vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants are the reigning industry’s active ingredient leaders consumers look for when making their purchases of skin care lines. The antioxidant synthetically derived and similar to the popular skin care ingredient CoQ10 called Idebenone has swept the industry with features of being a “high-octane antioxidant” according to Linda Dyett in an article for Prevention magazine. Its characteristics include its ability to protect a wide variety of cells from oxidative damage better than CoQ10. Prevage, a company owned by Elizabeth Arden and Allergan has had much success with their anti-aging skin care line containing Idebenone.

Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid, HA) is a very important and effective component to anti-aging skin care products due to its ability to act as a highly effective emulsifier, a binding agent that prevents the separation of water and lipid components. As a result, the skin plumps, which gives it a reduced appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Keeping the skin smooth and moisturized is essential to slowing down the aging process of the skin. Beta Carotene, a precursor of Retinol (Vitamin A) is an ingredient many manufacturers include in their formulas. Applied topically, it is known to reduce the effects of sun damage, which is a sure-fire path of an effective anti-aging product. Antioxidants like Vitamins A, C, and E, flavonoids, Beta Carotene, Glutathione and Zinc all have unique functions that contribute to a great product. Ascorbyl Palmitate, the derivative of Vitamin C is also the fat-soluble form of Ascorbic Acid. By assisting with the manufacturing of Collagen, it acts to protect the skin from free radicals – anti-aging’s number one enemy.

The Creators

Looking the best is often associated with feeling the best. Supported by the desire for visual youth, the Cosmeceutical industry’s market for anti-aging products keeps growing every year despite the rough economy, both within the U.S. and abroad. Men and women are opting for cheaper methods for smoother and firmer skin. “Going under the knife” is just not as popular as it used to be according to recent reports. Manufacturers, dermatologist, R & D departments and raw ingredient distributors are all racing to the finish line to be the creators of the next big anti-aging product to hit the market.